山門春聯 The Gate-Tower Couplet
三藏離鞍下馬,又見那山門左邊有一通碑,碑上有十個大字,乃是「萬壽山福地,五莊觀洞天」。長老道:「徒弟,真個是一座觀宇。」沙僧道:「師父,觀此景鮮明,觀裡必有好人居住。我們進去看看,若行滿東回,此間也是一景。」行者道:「說得好。」遂都一齊進去,又見那二門上有一對春聯:「長生不老神仙府;與天同壽道人家。」行者笑道:「這道士說大話諕人。我老孫五百年前大鬧天宮時,在那太上老君門首,也不曾見有此話說。」八戒道:「且莫管他,進去,進去,或者這道士有些德行,未可知也。」三藏离鞍下马,又见那山门左边有一通碑,碑上有十个大字,乃是「万寿山福地,五庄观洞天」。长老道:「徒弟,真个是一座观宇。」沙僧道:「师父,观此景鲜明,观里必有好人居住。我们进去看看,若行满东回,此间也是一景。」行者道:「说得好。」遂都一齐进去,又见那二门上有一对春联:「长生不老神仙府;与天同寿道人家。」行者笑道:「这道士说大话諕人。我老孙五百年前大闹天宫时,在那太上老君门首,也不曾见有此话说。」八戒道:「且莫管他,进去,进去,或者这道士有些德行,未可知也。」
逐句解 Line by line
Tripiṭaka left his saddle and dismounted, and saw, to the left of the mountain gate, a stone tablet bearing ten great characters: "Blessed Ground of the Mountain of Ten-Thousand Years; Grotto-Heaven of the Temple of the Five Villages."
The stele states the address, and it is a claim as much as a location. 洞天, dòng tiān, "grotto-heaven," is a precise Daoist term: one of a numbered set of sacred cave-realms where the geography of the world folds into something larger. Combined with 福地, blessed ground, it announces a site of the first rank. 一通碑 — 通 is tòng here, the measure word used for steles and documents, not the tōng of "to pass through."
The Elder said, "Disciples, it is indeed a Daoist abbey."
Tripiṭaka settles the abbey-or-monastery question. 長老, the Elder, with 長 as zhǎng, "senior."
Sha Monk said, "Master, seeing how bright and fair the place, there must be worthy folk dwelling within.
And here the two readings of 觀 sit in a single sentence: 觀此景 is the verb guān, "looking at this scene," while 觀裡 is the noun guàn, "inside the abbey." Sha Monk's guess that worthy people must live here is correct, and will do nobody any good.
Let us go in and look; and should we return east with our task fulfilled, this too will be a sight worth the seeing."
行滿, xíng mǎn, the merit complete, the journey done. A quiet, hopeful line: on the way home, we should stop here again. 一景 — note yì, since 景 (jǐng) is a third tone.
Pilgrim said, "Well spoken."
說得好 takes the light de, the structural link that makes "said" and "well" into one phrase.
So they all went in together, and saw upon the second gate a spring-couplet: "A deathless, ageless mansion of immortals; a Daoist household coeval with Heaven."
A 春聯, chūn lián, is the paired red scroll pasted either side of a doorway at New Year — still a universal sight in Chinese households. The pair here boasts of deathless immortals and a household as old as Heaven. And note 長生: 長 is cháng, "long," in "long life" — set against the zhǎng of 長老, "Elder," four lines earlier. One character, two tones, same passage.
Pilgrim said with a laugh, "This Daoist talks big to frighten folk.
Pilgrim reads it as advertising. 諕 is xià, a loan-character standing in for 嚇, "to frighten" — a corpus-wide reading in this edition.
Five hundred years ago, when I raised my great uproar in Heaven, even at the very gate of the Most-High Lord Lao I never saw talk the like of this."
The boast he uses to deflate the boast: five hundred years ago he wrecked Heaven, and even at the door of 太上老君, the deified Laozi and highest of the Daoist gods he encountered then, he never saw advertising this shameless. The escapade he refers to occupies chapters 5 to 7. His scorn is about to look very foolish.
Bajie said, "Never mind that — in, in! Perhaps this Daoist has some real virtue; who can say?"
Bājiè, whose interest in theology is limited, wants to go in. 德行, dé xíng, moral attainment, with 行 as xíng. He is the only one who says something accurate about their host, and he says it to end the conversation.
They dismount and read the sign, and the sign is making a formal claim. 洞天福地 — grotto-heaven and blessed ground — is not decorative language; it is the technical designation for a site on the register of Daoist sacred places. Then the spring-couplet on the inner gate raises the stakes further: a mansion of deathless immortals, a household as old as Heaven.
Pilgrim reads this the way anyone reads a shop sign that promises too much, and says so. He has been to Heaven; he has stood at the gate of the deified Laozi himself; he wrecked the place; and even there nobody talked like this. Which is a good joke, and would be a better one if the couplet were exaggerating. It is not. Their host really is as old as the world, and the reader — who was told so several passages ago — gets to watch Pilgrim be confidently wrong.
There is a nice piece of tonal machinery in this passage too. 長 appears twice within a few lines: once as zhǎng in 長老, the Elder, and once as cháng in 長生, long life. Same character, different tone, different meaning, and the ruby has to keep them apart.