木耳閩筍 Wood Ear and Bamboo Shoots
那婦人越發歡喜,跑下去教:「莫宰,莫宰。取些木耳、閩筍、豆腐、麵筋,園裡拔些青菜,做粉湯,發麵蒸捲子,再煮白米飯,燒香茶。」那妇人越发欢喜,跑下去教:「莫宰,莫宰。取些木耳、闽笋、豆腐、面筋,园里拔些青菜,做粉汤,发面蒸卷子,再煮白米饭,烧香茶。」
逐句解 Line by line
The woman was more delighted still, and ran down calling: "Don't kill! Don't kill!
越發 is all the more, even more so. She is being paid banquet prices for a meal that costs her a fraction as much, and she has worked that out on the stairs.
Fetch some wood-ear, Fujian bamboo shoots, beancurd and wheat gluten; pull some greens from the garden; make a noodle soup; raise dough and steam some rolls; then boil white rice and brew fragrant tea."
This is a real Ming vegetarian menu and every item is still eaten. 木耳 is the wood-ear fungus, 閩筍 bamboo shoots from Fujian, which travelled dried and were a luxury inland, and 麵筋 is wheat gluten — dough washed until only the protein is left, the oldest meat substitute there is. 捲子 is a steamed roll, and its last character takes the everyday zi.
The menu is the best evidence in the chapter that the novel knows what an inn actually served. Nothing here is invented and nothing is grand: it is what a good kitchen could put together at short notice without killing anything.
The bamboo shoots are the one luxury and they give the place away. Dried Fujian shoots in a kitchen this far inland mean a landlady who buys well, which is consistent with everything else about her.