椒薑辛辣 Pepper and Ginger Hot Together
逐句解 Line by line
Cucumber and bottle gourd, ginkgo and turnip.
Four plain vegetables in eight characters, with no verb between them. The rhapsody drops to bare naming for a line, which gives the ear a rest before the cooked dishes arrive.
Peeled aubergine done up as quail; hollowed winter melon under the name of fangdan.
Now the kitchen shows off. 鏇皮 is to pare the skin off in a turning cut, and the peeled aubergine is being served as a mock quail — vegetarian food imitating meat, which is the oldest game in Chinese temple cooking and still played today. The winter melon has been scooped out and given a fancy name, which is the same joke from the other end.
Taro stewed soft and tossed with sugar; white-boiled radish dressed with vinegar.
Two humble roots, two treatments, and the couplet balances sweet against sour. 著 is zhe, the tossing held in place, so the sugar is on the taro rather than being added to it.
Pepper and ginger, hot in every kind; salt and bland brought into harmony, even in every colour.
The rhapsody closes on seasoning, which is where a Chinese account of cooking properly ends. In 調 the reading is tiáo, to blend — and 調和 is the standard word for bringing flavours into balance, a phrase that carries a whiff of statecraft, since harmonising is what a good minister does too.
The mock quail is the detail to keep. Vegetarian cooking that imitates meat is not a modern invention and not a compromise — Chinese Buddhist kitchens have been shaping gluten and aubergine into fish and fowl for well over a thousand years, partly as hospitality and partly as a display of skill.
Ending on the harmonising of flavours is a conventional and rather grand way to close. The word for it is the same one used of a minister bringing a state into balance, and the rhapsody borrows the dignity without comment.
A hundred and seventy-three characters of food, and not one of them breaks a rule. That is the achievement the passage is celebrating and it is also the problem. Tripitaka has been handed a table he cannot object to, and the objection he actually has is not about food at all.